Let us take a moment to consider Kale. That humble, sweet green with the bitter bite that has the texture of an innertube when not prepared correctly. You can’t swing a salad spinner around Los Angeles these days without hitting a restaurant with a Kale Salad on the menu. I am ever hopeful, but alas, have been burned many times by the sub-par kale salad.
Until I encountered the amazing version at Food Lab in Silverlake. I had read about it on Yelp!, Twitter, Facebook, everywhere, and when I met a friend there for lunch a couple weeks ago, I knew I had to have it. Studded with almonds, shallots, brussels sprouts and romano cheese, this salad is my new obsession.
For football season, I like to serve these babies up on a toasted french roll. For a tailgate, you can make them in advance, and keep them wrapped in their foil to enjoy field-side. Or, if you live in Los Angeles, fire up the grill by the pool and enjoy after a long swim…. Continue reading
A dining room runs like a football team, every staff member has a position and plays a very specific role. It is only by having several positions with different areas of focus that you can ensure service is smooth.
For the first installment– let’s start with the foundation of the front of house staff: the bussing crew.
The lovely ladies that I work for did it again this season with a fabulous holiday gift– the Le Creuset fondue pot. Since they thoughtfully gifted it with Gruyere and Emmenthaler, I needed to christen this baby quickly.
Once the New Year’s mayhem subsided at work, I treated the Gent to a Fondue Dinner courtesy of the tiny kitchen….
One of the most fun parts of fondue is putting together the array of dip-ables to accompany the molten cheesy goodness. From the minute that I decided to make a fondue dinner, I could not stop thinking about FONDUE AND PRETZELS.
I roasted up some mushrooms, brussels sprouts, and baby potatoes (fondue and pretzels). I cooked up a peppery, medium rare New York Strip (fondue and pretzels). I chopped up some granny smith apple, radishes, and added some cherry tomatoes (pretzels…? PRETZELS???).
Then I made some fresh, soft pretzels.
And omydearsweetgoodness, was I so ecstatic/depressed that I did. Ecstatic because they were so delicious, and came together so easily. Then depressed because now all I can think about–even 24 hours later– is FONDUE AND PRETZELS.
Recipes are below. Enjoy.
But don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Traditional Cheese Fondue:
- 1/2 pound imported Emmenthaler cheese, shredded
- 1/2 pound Gruyere cheese, shredded
- 4 tablespoons cornstarch
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon cherry brandy, such as kirsch
- 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
- Pinch nutmeg
- Salt & pepper to taste
- Assorted dip-ables
In a small bowl, coat the cheeses with cornstarch and set aside. Rub the inside of the ceramic fondue pot with the garlic cloves.
Over medium heat, add the wine and lemon juice, toss in the garlic cloves, and bring to a gentle simmer. After the wine simmers for a minute, remove the garlic cloves. Add the cheeses one handful at a time; stirring continuously until incorporated. Melting the cheese gradually encourages a smooth fondue. Once all the cheese is added and mixture is smooth, stir in cherry brandy, mustard and nutmeg. Add salt and pepper if necessary.
Serve with chunks of French bread, or fresh soft pretzels. Some other suggestions are granny smith apples, radishes, bosc pears, and blanched vegetables or roasted vegetables. I love brussels sprouts with their bitter bite. Spear with fondue forks or wooden skewers, dip, swirl and enjoy.
Couple of rules for fondue:
1. Don’t eat directly off of your fondue fork or skewer. The fondue will be really hot right out of the pot and could burn your mouth, and at a party, double dipping is just tacky.
2. If you drop your dip-able item in the fondue, tradition requires that you kiss the person to your left. So be strategic….
adapted from Alton Brown
- 1 1/2 cups warm (110 to 115 degrees F) water
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 package active dry yeast
- 4 1/2 cups flour
- 2 ounces unsalted butter, melted
- Vegetable oil, for pan
- 10 cups water
- 2/3 cup baking soda
- 1 large egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon water
- Pretzel salt, or sea salt, or any variety of salty yummy seasoning
Combine the water, sugar and kosher salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and sprinkle the yeast on top. Allow to sit for 5 minutes or until the mixture begins to foam. Add the flour and butter and, using the dough hook attachment, mix on low speed until well combined. Change to medium speed and knead until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the side of the bowl, approximately 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the dough from the bowl, clean the bowl and then oil it well with vegetable oil. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and sit in a warm place for approximately 50 to 55 minutes or until the dough has doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line 2 half-sheet pans with parchment paper and lightly brush with the vegetable oil. Set aside.
Bring the 10 cups of water and the baking soda to a rolling boil in an 8-quart saucepan or roasting pan.
In the meantime, turn the dough out onto a slightly oiled work surface and divide into 8 equal pieces. Roll out each piece of dough into a 24-inch rope. Make a U-shape with the rope, holding the ends of the rope, cross them over each other and press onto the bottom of the U in order to form the shape of a pretzel. Or for pretzel rolls, twist into corkscrews. Place onto the parchment-lined half sheet pan.
Place the pretzels into the boiling water, 1 by 1, for 30 seconds. Remove them from the water using a large flat spatula. Return to the half sheet pan, brush the top of each pretzel with the beaten egg yolk and water mixture and sprinkle with the pretzel salt. Bake until dark golden brown in color, approximately 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack for at least 5 minutes before serving.
This is one of my favorite go-to meals to make when it’s a brisk autumn day in LA. And with the amazing team at McCall’s Meat & Fish just up the street, I find myself making this dish almost once a week.
Mussels don’t need to be scary. Especially if the shop you buy them from cleans them for you already.
To store mussels prior to cooking, rinse in cool water and store in a bowl half filled with ice. Place a damp towel over the top of the bowl. You need to keep the mussels cool, moist, and with good oxygen access. So don’t wrap them up in plastic wrap or otherwise suffocate them.
Eat mussels during cool months, and those containing the letter ‘R’ in their name– September, October, November, etc.
Pair these mussels with plenty of crusty bread and the Autumn Version of the Gent’s Salad.
serves 2 as an entrée or 4 as an appetizer
It is fair to note that I love a lot of garlic, and a lot of broth with my mussels. If I’m feeling particularly decadent, I’ll make a batch of french fries to go along with this. In the pursuit of sopping up all that delicious broth, french fries are definitely my weapon of choice. But chunks of crusty baguette are a close second.
1.5 lbs mussels
1 small onion, sliced into shoestrings
8 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tsp dried basil, oregano, or parsley (or all three, why not?)
4 tbs butter
2 cups chicken stock
3/4 c dry white wine
salt & pepper
In a 4 qt dutch oven (or any large pot with a lid), heat one tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium high heat. Add onion and cook until translucent. Toss in garlic and cook until fragrant. De-glaze the pan with white wine, then add chicken stock and herbs. When the stock comes to a boil, add mussels and give one big stir.
Cover pot and reduce heat to medium. steam Mussels for about 8 minutes, or until they open. Discard any unopened mussels. Finish with final 3 tablespoons of butter. Serve with plenty of broth in a flat bottom bowls.
Autumn Gent’s Salad:
The Gent very eagerly brought home a bunch of kale a few weeks ago and absolutely hated it. Too bitter for him. It’s one of those greens that is great on paper, but sometimes too overpowering on the palate. So I baked the Kale with some olive oil, salt & pepper for about 20 minutes in a 400 degree oven to create Kale chips. They are fantastic on a salad, adding an earthy base note for the brighter elements to play off of. A creamy buttermilk dressing, the bright bite of tomato, and crunch of a buttery crouton…. you know what you could also add to this? Bacon.
umm…. I’ll be right back….
Salad seasoning– we love Salad Elegant from Chicago’s Spice House
Layer ingredients in a flat bowl, finishing with dressing & a sprinkle of Salad Seasoning.
It was a rainy day in Los Angeles yesterday, perfect weather for a long cooking project. Parker House Rolls have been on my list for awhile, and considering their 3 hour prep time, it was a perfect fit.
I aggregated a couple recipes, but the one I hewed closest to came from Chowhound. These were great with a roast chicken dinner, and equally delicious for breakfast this morning with a little grapefruit curd. The combination of the lightly sweet roll, savory butter, and creamy tartness of the grapefruit curd is so elegant and delicious with a cup of coffee or tea.
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter
- 1 tsp dry sage
- 1 tsp dry rosemary
- 1 tsp dry thyme
- 1/2 tsp coarse salt
- 1/2 tsp onion powder
- 1/2 tsp garlic powder
- 1/2 tsp honey
- tsp olive oil
Combine spices, salt, honey and olive oil in a microwave safe bowl. Zap the mixture in the microwave on medium power for 30 seconds. Mix in butter. cover tightly and chill in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Parker House Rolls
(adapted from Chowhound)
- 1/4 ounce (1 packet) active dry yeast
- 3/4 cup warm water (100°F to 110°F)
- 1 1/4 cups whole milk
- 1 tbs lemon juice
- 1/4 cup honey
- 5 2/3 cups bread flour
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (3/4 stick), cut into small pieces, plus more for the bowl and dish
- Herb Butter (optional)
- Coarse salt for sprinkling
- Dissolve yeast in warm water in a medium bowl; set aside until foamy, about 5 minutes. Stir lemon juice into milk and let sit for a couple minutes. Add honey, & milk mixture into yeast mixture; set aside.
- Stir together flour
and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, make a well in the center, pour in yeast mixture, and mix on low speed until evenly incorporated, about 2 minutes.
- Increase mixer speed to medium low and add butter, a few pieces at a time, letting butter completely incorporate before adding more. Mix dough until smooth, elastic, and slightly soft, about 10 minutes total.
- Butter a large bowl, place dough in the bowl, and turn to coat. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, coat a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with butter.
- Once dough has risen, divide in two equal pieces. On a lightly floured surface, roll out one piece into a 12-by-10-inch rectangle, keeping the second piece covered with a towel.
- Cut the rolled rectangle of dough lengthwise into 5 strips. Cut each strip into 3 smaller rectangles. If using herb butter, spread 1/4 tsp of butter into each rectangle before folding the rectangle in half, and set aside. Repeat with remaining rectangles. Repeat entire process with second piece of dough.
- Arrange rolls seam-side down in the prepared pan, 6 across and 5 down. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350°F and arrange a rack in the lower third.
- Once dough has risen, brush herb butter (or regular butter) over top of rolls and sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake until bottom and tops of rolls are golden brown, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven, let cool 5 minutes, and serve.
- 2 cups grapefruit juice (you can substitute any fruit juice, really)
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 8 egg yolks (I used the yolks I had left over from a batch of Italian Meringue Buttercream)
- 1/4 cup cornstarch
- 1 tsp vanilla
- 4 tbs butter